Levissi, founded in the late 18th or early 19th century on the site of the ancient Lycian settlement of Karmilassos, was once a thriving town. It became home to a Greek Christian community of around 6,500 people who sustained themselves through agriculture, crafts, and trade.

The narrow streets of Levissi once echoed with the sound of church bells, mingling with children’s laughter and the quiet conversations of elders sitting under olive trees. The stone houses, with their terracotta-tiled roofs, were terraced along the hillsides, blending harmoniously into the natural landscape. Churches crowned the town, gathering residents for morning and evening services. On summer evenings, a warm breeze carried the scents of jasmine, thyme, and lavender, while in winter, families gathered around the fireplaces that remain in many of the ruins today.
Levissi was also known for its bustling markets, where traders sold fresh produce, olive oil, handcrafted goods, and vibrant textiles.

However, the Greco-Turkish War of 1919–1922 marked a turning point in Levissi’s history. In 1923, the two nations signed a treaty mandating a population exchange. Greek Christians in Turkey, including the people of Levissi, were forced to relocate to Greece, while Muslims in Greece were resettled in Turkey.

This exchange was a devastating chapter for Levissi. Families who had lived on this land for generations were compelled to abandon their homes, taking only the essentials with them. They left behind their gardens, schools, churches, and homes, which slowly began to deteriorate under the weight of time and nature.

The Muslim population brought in from Greece chose not to settle in the abandoned town, and Levissi became a ghost town. Overgrown with wild vegetation and marked by crumbling churches, its ruins stand as silent witnesses to a bygone era.

Today, Levissi is a protected open-air museum and a significant cultural heritage site. Visitors can wander through its hauntingly beautiful ruins, which offer a glimpse into a once-vibrant community and its poignant history.

There are multiple entrances to the abandoned town of Kayaköy. My preferred route is from the side I typically enter, walking through the town up to the viewpoint. Alternatively, there is an official entrance with a fee of 130 ₺, located near the Antik Café, which also offers parking. If you're driving, this might be a more convenient option.

Another essential stop for those traveling by car is the Darboğaz Isthmus, a picturesque area with several secluded beaches. A scenic 15-minute trail leads from the main road to this lovely place. To find the path, park along the roadside, and follow the well-trodden route. Along the way, you'll pass ruins believed to be part of an ancient port used by the residents of Levissi, though their exact history remains unclear.

The isthmus is particularly captivating during the off-season, offering a peaceful retreat from the crowds. However, it’s best to avoid weekends, as it’s a popular spot for local picnics. If you like, you can extend your walk and follow the circular trail around the half island after the isthmus, check the route on Maps.Me or Organic Maps.

A short drive beyond Darboğaz will bring you to Gemiler Beach. While not a necessary stop, it’s a lovely place to visit if time permits. The entrance fee is approximately 100 TRY, and from the beach, you can view St. Nicholas Island. If you’re fortunate enough to find a captain (they don’t hang around much in winter), you might arrange a boat ride to the island for around 500 TRY.